Permanent Makeup - Which Machine is Right for You?
Permanent makeup, also known as cosmetic tattoo, is often performed by using a tattoo machine. There are many tattooing machines on the market, and this can pose some challenges for newer permanent makeup artists when deciding which machine to invest in.
Cosmetic tattoo or permanent makeup machines can differ in terms of size, weight, use, and power. While there is no one size fits all, understanding the importance of how these factors affect your technique and usability can make a world of difference in ensuring you’ve got the right tools for the job.
When I look at purchasing any machines, the first thing I look at is whether the pen is wireless or wired. This may be a personal preference for a lot of folks but having used both, I do prefer the wired machines for a few reasons: 1) the wireless machines often come with a battery that is a bit bulkier (I like my machine very light and easy to maneuver), 2) batteries on the wireless machines often last about 4-5 hours and need recharging or extra set of battery when the time is up (I know that with a wired machine, I’ll never have to worry about recharging or having an extra set of battery in case I’m low). These are just some preferences to think about if you are purchasing a new machine.
If you are moving forward with a wired machine, you do need to think about your power supply. Unless your machine is coming in a kit, it will most likely only include the machine (pen) itself and you’ll need to already have a power supply that you can plug the wire into, to connect your pen, or purchase a power supply. Like the permanent makeup machines, power supplies will also have its differences in how much power / voltage is used for your pen. It is important to take a look at the range of voltage it comes with, as you’ll want a flexible power supply that can allow your pen to work at a lower voltage, especially when it comes to sensitive skin, nano strokes, etc.
Up next is the stroke length. When you are in the process of purchasing a cosmetic tattooing gun, you’ll see that the manufacturer or seller will provide the stroke length in its specifications. You can have a short, medium, or long stroke length. The length determines the distance that the needle travels in and out of the machine when it is turned on. For instance, short stroke is between 1.8 - 2.5mm, medium is about 3.0mm, and long is from 3.5 - 4.0mm. Because the needle isn’t traveling in and out of the machine too far, short stroke length machines will give you the most powdery & airy look during an ombre brow session, for example, and can be great for soft powder brows & lip blushing. That said, it can pose difficulty in implanting ink for thicker and resistant skin types and can require more passes for proper saturation. The medium length is pretty universal and can be suited for both beginner & advanced permanent makeup artists and is great for brows, eyeliner, and lip blushing alike. Long strokes, on the other hand, means that the needle is traveling pretty far in and out of the machine in comparison to short stroke length. This means that the needle is hitting the skin harder and depositing the ink more precisely and quickly. That said, because the needle is hitting the skin with more power, it can over-traumatize the skin, especially for beginner artists.
Another factor to consider are the size and the weight of the machine. Personally, I like the more pen-style, lighter machines that provide ergonomical benefits to my working hand. Working with a heavier pen all day long can easily tire out your hands and make it more difficult for artists to maneuver their machines.
These are the main factors I look at when purchasing a new permanent makeup machine. Once you get the machine of your choice, it’s also up to you to test out the machine and see what voltage you need to be using, dependent on the power supply and your own hand speed, which can be different for everyone. Take your time getting adjusted to your new machine and practice, practice, practice, before you use it on a client! But the right machine will make your cosmetic tattooing experience easier and faster. There are so many great brands and machines out there, it can be overwhelming to choose the right one. But try to do your research before investing in an expensive equipment and hone your skills and techniques as that can boost the overall experience and performance of the machine!
